Hashi~Chopsticks

While visiting Stratford, Ontario last week, my friend Paula and I came across a pair of "hillbilly" chopsticks in one of the shops. We laughed when we saw them but it got me thinking about using chopsticks in Japan.

Foolproof "hillbilly" chopsticks

Of course Hello Kitty was popular

Many of the kids I taught had "cheater" or trainer chopsticks that were attached at the top, making it easier to grab food. They were much cuter than the hillbilly chopsticks, with cartoon or Disney characters on them. 

I was able to use chopsticks before moving to Japan, but I wasn't certain about the etiquette of eating with them. Much like trying to figure out which fork to use at a formal dinner, I needed to educate myself on what was common practice since chopsticks are a necessity when eating in Japan.

Japanese chopsticks are made of wood and bamboo and are usually lacquered. Some have grooves at the bottom to prevent food from slipping. Convenience stores and some restaurants will provide disposable chopsticks known as otemoto or waribashi. You remove them from the paper wrapper and split them apart. Some people will scrape or rub them together to avoid splinters. However, there's no need to do this with a decent pair of chopsticks.

Waribashi~disposable chopsticks

Before you start your meal, it's common to say itadakimasu which is the equivalent to "let's eat" or "thanks for the feast".

When you are done eating, you place your chopsticks back in the wrapper they came in.

At the end of the meal, you say gochisosama deshita which translates to "it was a feast".



If you are dining at someone's house or a more expensive restaurant, you will be given a nicer set of chopsticks and they will have a rest or stand, called hashioki. When you aren't using your chopsticks, place them on the stand. If you place them across your bowl or plate, that indicates you are done with your dish.

I made these hashioki in a Japanese
pottery class. 
The eggplant is my favourite.

Place the chopsticks side by side and
horizontal so they aren't pointing at
the person sitting across from you.
*Don't cross them as that symbolizes
death.

It's taboo to stand your chopsticks up vertically in a bowl of rice. This is a ritual at a funeral and inappropriate when dining with others. If you are taking a break from eating, place them on your hashioki. It's a common misconception that rice is difficult to eat with chopsticks. Japanese rice is short grained and when cooked, the rice sticks and clumps together, making it easy to pick up. 

Don't stab your food with chopsticks. When grabbing food from a communal bowl, reverse your chopsticks so you aren't using the end that goes in your mouth. Never pass food to another person chopstick to chopstick. This resembles a custom at Japanese funerals where cremated bones are transferred to an urn. 

Other Don'ts:

*Don't lick or suck your chopsticks (no matter how delicious the sauce may be).
*Don't use them as drumsticks, or play with them in general.
*Don't move a dish or plate closer to you with your chopsticks.
*Don't point your chopsticks at someone. Known as sashi bashi  it's considered very bad manners and probably the worst thing you could do at the dinner table.
*Don't cut food with your chopsticks. If there's a piece of food that's too big, bring it to your mouth, bite it, and return the remainder to your plate.
*Don't pick something up, change your mind, and return it to the communal bowl.
*Don't dig around a dish looking for something good; choose from the top of the dish.

If you create a faux pas, most Japanese people will forgive you. Even so, knowing some of the etiquette will reflect well on you and your fellow diners will be extremely pleased. With practice, you can become so skilled at using chopsticks, that you will be able to pick up a grain of rice or a single bean.

When dining out in Japan, chances are you may feel judged, since others will watch you to ensure you don't blunder. I think the most difficult aspect of dining out was getting used to eating ramen and soba noodles. In Japan, no spoon is used when sipping soup. Instead, you bring the bowl to your mouth, slurping the liquid while shovelling the noodles into your mouth with chopsticks.  It's very uncomfortable at first, as it goes against everything we are taught as children at the dinner table, defying our basic table manners. When you first sit in a ramen shop, it's shocking to hear how noisy everyone is. Apparently it's a compliment to the cook so the noise is welcome.

 

At least I never had to
wear this! 

After mastering the art of using chopsticks in Japan, you then have to learn the etiquette for every other Asian country. Chopsticks across Asia are made with different materials and are varying lengths. Perhaps India is the safest bet since there are no utensils there and you can eat with your hands.



So the next time you go out for sushi or to any other Asian restaurant, ask for chopsticks. Leave the fork and knife on the table and experiment a little. In no time at all, you will be a pro! You'll never need to use a pair of hillybilly chopsticks again.

~MT

Hotel, Motel, Holiday Inn

In Japan, there are a variety of accommodations available. My first night in the country was spent in a business hotel. Although the room had a decent bed and shower, it wasn't very memorable. When I started making money and traveling around Japan, I stayed at an assortment of places from budget to high-end.

GUEST HOUSE
When planning a trip to Kyoto, a friend suggested the Tani Inn, an International Guest House. It was walking distance from the train station and close to the major temples and shrines in the city.

Autumn trip with Claudette and Kelly

The Tani Inn was cheap and convenient. Consisting of 12 guest rooms, we met travelers from all over the world. There was a common room with a small t.v. and this is where breakfast was served in the morning. The owner spoke English and was extremely helpful, providing directions and maps of the city.








The only point of contention were the bathrooms. Despite the fact they were westernized, they could have used some updating. Although I commended the owner for matching the toilet cozy with the colour of the toilet, there was a lot of pink going on in such a small room.

You can urinate, shower, and brush your teeth...all at the same time

YOUTH HOSTELS
There are approximately 300 youth hostels across Japan and they're both clean and comfortable. You don't need a membership card and people of all ages can stay. The rates are affordable (although more expensive than youth hostels in other countries) and they offer dinner and breakfast for an extra cost.

There were six of us traveling together during Christmas break and we spent one night at a hostel in Hiroshima. Situated on top of a hill, it provided a great view of the city. When you checked in, you were given a room and bed/bunk number. The men and women were in separate parts of the hostel. It was a large facility and the staff were very welcoming.

RYOKAN
Ryokan are Japanese style inns and very popular for both Japanese and tourists. When you enter the ryokan, you take your shoes off, leave them at the front door, slide on some slippers and an attendant will then check you in and show you to your room. This is common practice at many facilities across the country. Over the course of six years, I didn't lose one pair of shoes. Granted, I wouldn't have left a pair of my Fluevog's (if you aren't familiar with them, visit www.fluevog.com) but my blue Chucks were always there at check out.

Genkan (entrance) where you leave your shoes

The bedroom floor is tatami and you sleep on a futon. In this manner, the ryokan is similar to a guest house, however, the quality is far more superior. The bedding is exceedingly comfortable and the room is very quiet. There's a table in the room and your attendant brings in your meals (both supper and breakfast) which feature local cuisine.

Most ryokans have beautiful gardens, sporting activities and public areas for guests to enjoy. They have ofuro which is a common bathing area segregated by gender. Guests are given a yukata or robe to wear. The ryokan is an experience that shouldn't be missed when traveling in Japan. This was unequivocally my preferred choice of lodging and I stayed at a number of them throughout the country. The reception is warm and inviting, and the comfort level can't be beat.

MINSHUKU
A budget version of the ryokan, minshukus are located in towns too small for a hotel or ryokan. They are family run and the equivalent to a European pension hotel or a western style B&B or boarding house. You spend your meals with the other guests and with the family that owns/runs the minshuku.

CAPSULE HOTEL

The capsule hotel is not ideal for someone that suffers from claustrophobia! They resemble a morgue with the capsules stacked side by side and on top of each other. This is a perfect alternative for one looking for a cheap place to stay, without the amenities the bigger hotels afford. These pod-like capsules have free wireless and a t.v. There is a storage locker for your luggage and communal washrooms.  The capsule hotels are optimal for single travelers on a budget.

LOVE HOTELS 

Hugely popular in Japan, love hotels offer a short stay for couples looking for some privacy while engaging in sexual activities. Entrances are discreet, parking is hidden, and there is little interaction with staff. There are no windows to maximize privacy. Couples have the choice of a "rest" or "stay". The rates are based on the hour, and a "rest" lasts 1-3 hours. The "stay" are for couples who spend the night. With more and more of Japan's youth living at home until they marry (if they marry), these hotels offer the privacy a couple needs. Love hotels bring in an annual revenue in the billions.

Hello Kitty...setting the mood. You feeling it? 

The hotels often have a theme. Steps from my apartment was the Shakespeare Love Hotel. Being an English major, I could embrace that. Most hotels have karaoke, baths, rotating beds and condoms on the bedside table. With the "rest" option, these hotels are also used by travelers who need to grab a few hours sleep, but don't want to pay full rates at an expensive hotel.

Big Red

When I returned to Canada, I worked at a hotel for seven years and with that came the benefit of receiving employee discounts. Now that I no longer work at a hotel, I prefer to find accommodations using VRBO (vacation rental by owner) or airbnb. Nowadays, I no longer travel with a backpack or on a budget. I swapped my backpack for Big Red, my suitcase that has four wheels and spins!

I'm fortunate to have had the opportunity to travel around Japan and stay at a number of places. I could have stayed at Holiday Inn's, but traveling is about braving the new and unknown. The various accommodations added to my overall Japanese experience and I couldn't have asked for better lodging while traveling there.

~MT