Tis the Season

Being from Canada, I'm accustomed to experiencing four distinct seasons. Winter lasts longer than I'd like some years, but we definitely have four.

When I arrived in Japan, it was June. I knew Summer was starting and it would be hot. What I wasn't prepared for was rainy season, known as Tsuyu. Japan's fifth season lasts from the beginning of June until mid July. It's necessary for cultivating rice, but for the people living there it's a hot, sodden, waterlogged month and a half.

My umbrella became an appendage and I quickly learned that even if it was only cloudy in the morning, rain would soon be coming. A sea of umbrellas were visible everywhere. When you entered a business or store, you inserted your umbrella into a stand at the door, encasing it in plastic wrap so as not to drip water all over the floor. Some places just had a stand where you deposited your umbrella and this is how I lost a few of them. Riding a bike in the rain proved difficult at first (riding with one hand) but I soon became a pro.

Even with my wellies, a 3-layer Gore-tex jacket from Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC), and my umbrella, I always felt bisho bisho, which describes someone or something that is sopping wet, soaking wet through. I felt like this for the first few weeks of my stay. Wearing rubber boots and a raincoat in that heat just made me sweat on top of being soaked from the rain. Laundry and airing out my futon were next to impossible during this season, as both clothes and the futon are hung outside. I was happy when the skies cleared and we officially moved into Summer.

Living in Windsor, Ontario, I'm used to heat and humidity. The other day, the temperature was sitting at a balmy 93°F or 34°C. I'm fortunate to have a pool in my backyard and A/C at home, work and in my car. In Japan, the department stores and businesses blast cold air to near Arctic temps, but then stepping back outside, you feel like you're entering the fires of hell. One word to describe Summer: sweltering.

My students would enter the classroom and drop like flies, exhausted from the heat. Another expression the Japanese use is heto heto which describes being so tired that one has no strength left. My students would remain like this until it cooled off. It was common to see people with sweat towels and fans, doing anything to stay cool.

Despite the heat, Summer is a wonderful time in Japan. There are many festivals, the beaches and pools are open, and you can enjoy Matcha aisu (green tea ice cream).  I discovered the most delicious drink and I'm not sure why I sampled it in the first place since its name, CALPIS  sounded like cow piss. Its logo is Happy Refresh so that may have been the selling point. It looks milky and tastes a bit like vanilla yogurt. For ¥100 (about $1.20) I drank it often. It came in both soda and water versions but I preferred the water.

Calpis Water: a refreshing drink

As Summer turned to Autumn, my students told me about the foliage and the best places to visit to see the beautiful leaves. I took a weekend trip to Kyoto, which was the capital of Japan for most of its history. Kyoto is a gorgeous city and experiencing it in the Fall should be on every tourist's list.

Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion is a Zen Buddhist temple and one of the most famous places to visit in Japan. The surrounding trees are splendid, bursting with colour, and the temple is mirrored by the pond in front, known as Kyoko-chi. The Japanese gardens surrounding the temple are beautiful and although there are many visitors, you still feel a sense of peace and tranquility.

All too soon the leaves fell, temperatures dipped, and it was apparent Winter was coming. I had very few complaints about Winter in Japan. I didn't need a heavy coat, toque or mitts. I didn't see snow until I traveled north to Nagano (host of the Winter 1998 Olympics) for cross country skiing. Even without snow and temps rarely dipping below 2°C, my apartment was often chilly. To keep warm, I got a kotastu. The most common heater in Japan, the kotatsu is a low table with a heating element attached to the underside. You put a kotatsu buton, a blanket, between the table frame and the detachable table top. You sit with your legs underneath and gradually warm up.

Some people put another blanket, a kotatsu jiki on the ground but I was fine with mine sitting directly on the tatami mats. I often fell asleep at that table. It was also nice to sit around sharing drinks and laughs with friends.

Another plus to Winter in Japan, is seeing Mount Fuji covered in snow. Fuji is an active volcano but hasn't erupted in quite a number of years. The glorious mountain was located only 35km from where I lived, just a quick 30 minute train ride. Most days I would see Fuji-san while riding my bike to work, or from the roof of my apartment. Winter was the best time to view it. In hotter months, Fuji is often covered with clouds and visibility is poor.

Finally my favourite season in Japan- Spring. The main reason I loved this time of year was because of the cherry blossoms. O-hanami means flower watching, but is more commonly used to describe a spring picnic under the cherry-blossom trees. Groups of friends and colleagues gather to eat, drink, sing and admire the pink splendour.

Sumpu Koen (park)

Competition for top spots is fierce and the main reason is the life of the cherry blossoms is only about two weeks depending on the weather. Sitting under the cherry blossoms with friends, listening to the susurrus of the trees, while sipping on a beverage is a great way to spend your day off.

I was fortunate that I could ride my bike year-round, in any season. Riding past a rice paddy listening to the frogs at night, or riding by a green tea field inhaling the distinct smell of the leaves became a familiar part of my day. Riding through a park in Spring watching the cherry blossoms fall like snowflakes was an occurrence I won't forget. Although I could have done with less rain, it was still incredible to experience the different seasons.

~MT